10 tips to slow travel the U.S. by train
Get a complete slow travel experience exploring the U.S. by train. Skip the hassle of airport security checks. Ditch the driving. Be accommodated. Try a climate-friendly journey. Discover new places in the U.S. Geek out on trains and train stations.
Chicago, Illinois. The train station great hall. All trains go through Chicago; it is the great U.S. Amtrak hub. The lower you descend in the train station, the more people. The food court is hidden in a between layer underneath the lower marble floor and above the platform and crammed with people.
I didn’t travel comfort class through Chicago, but I did see the premium lounge. Might not be a bad way to go.
1. Do not expect the train to run on time.
For anyone who’s heard about the Amtrak experience in the U.S., you’ve likely heard someone with a horror story about a nine-hour delay (I recount one in my book, Heidi Across America). Given this reputation, avoid agitation during delays by planning an extra day at your destination instead of expecting to attend an event the day the train is scheduled to arrive. The prevalent delays largely result from freight trains having priority over passenger trains. Amtrak does what they can during delays to get people where they need to go, like providing transportation and new connections. If you have a lodging reservation that will be severely affected by a delay, let your lodging establishment know as much ahead of time as possible. Consider trip protection when you make your lodging reservation to cover delays.
2. Expect the train to run on time.
While you can usually still board up to five minutes before departure, conductors like to close the doors then. One of the ways trains make up for delays is to shorten time at stops. Minor stops might not even last five minutes, so if you’re planning to detrain or board at a minor stop, be ready. I like to give myself about 30 minutes at the station before the scheduled departure time. Sometimes you will be notified if a train is delayed, and you can always call Julie, Amtrak’s automated agent, to get updates (1.800.USA.RAIL).
Kansas City, Missouri. Amtrak boarding is through the doors in the archway on the right. The train departed at 10:15 p.m., and I arrived at the train station around 7 p.m.
I’d begun this leg of the trip from Omaha, Nebraska, but there wasn’t a convenient train south. If I’d felt like returning to Galesburg, Illinois, or Chicago, I could have connected with a train to Kansas City. There was a night bus from Omaha to Kansas City, but it departed at 11 p.m., requiring an overnight in Kansas City to connect with the train. After A LOT of trip planning research, I settled on renting a car at the airport and driving to the airport in Kansas City (172 miles and about 2.5 hours drive time). I used ride hailing to reach the train station since the bus was a 30-minute wait, would take more than an hour to get to the train station, and involved one transfer.
3. Book early for best rates and other cost-saving approaches.
The distance you plan to travel by train, where in the country you visit, the day of the week you travel, fare class, and extras (bicycles, small pets, and checked baggage) all affect the fare price. Depending on these factors, fares may be cost comparable to flying or taking the bus. Premium fares also give you access to special boarding lounges, early boarding, and other benefits. Book premium and flexible coach fares for no change fees.
Make your Amtrak reservation far in advance of your travel for the best availability and rates for premium class. Join the Amtrak Rewards program (and/or get an Amtrak Rewards credit card), and accumulate points based on miles traveled within the system. Redeem points for fare class upgrades and standard fares.
Newton, Kansas. I transferred from the Kansas City train to a bus in Newton. The train arrived at 2:30 a.m., and the bus departed at 3:30 a.m. A few people were sleeping on the chairs in the station, not catching the bus. I contemplated this painting. I do believe it was a bit crooked on the wall, but I didn’t break out my level to check nor did I straighten it.
The bus was almost an hour late departing Newton because the driver could not get the wheelchair lift sensor to register it was closed. For 30 minutes or so the driver opened and closed the lift, slamming it to ensure it was closed. Eventually he called for extra help because the bus wouldn’t start. The call worked, the sensor relaxed, and away south we went - three passengers in a big coach.
4. Plan on having a seatmate in coach.
Most seating is in pairs. If you don’t want to deal with a seatmate, travel with someone you like or forego coach. Seats are usually only assigned when trains are full, but even if there aren’t seat assignments, be prepared to have someone in the seat next to you for some period. For overnight trains, this can be awkward if you’re trying to get comfortable and your neighbor is snoring and/or spilling into your seat. Your neighbor might even be fast asleep and try to cuddle you.
Nearing Oklahoma City in the bus. About 6 a.m.
5. Prepare for temperature extremes.
As a passenger, you have absolutely no control over the air temperature on the train. Cooler temperatures minimize motion sickness, which is why trains (and buses and planes) are cool to cold. Bring a compressible or lightweight blanket, especially for an overnight train. For a shorter train ride, a jacket might do the trick. If you’re too hot, shed some layers, move to the observation car, find a different seat, go for a stretch in another part of the train, or, if you’re in a sunbeam, break out your parasol.
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I arrived around 7 a.m. (via connector bus service from Newton, KS) and waited about 45 minutes for the train to Ft. Worth, TX.
6. It’s not them. It’s you. Deal with your own peeves.
A train is a microcosm of life, and all types of people ride. When you confine this mix of people to a relatively narrow tube for hours, someone will invariably do something you don’t like. Remember you are responsible for you and you only. Yes, be considerate of others but recognize they may not return the courtesy, or their wants may conflict with yours. Be nice and resist the temptation to cave to or dominate others. Do what you need to do to take care of yourself. You paid to ride the train and so did they.
7. Bring a book and/or work or entertainment that does not require Internet.
Some trains have Wi-Fi and some don’t. Even trains that have Wi-Fi go in and out of service areas. There are outlets aplenty, so do plan on using your electronics if your preferred entertainments lend to that, but don’t forget charging cables. If you primarily read ebooks, consider bringing a paper book, newspaper, Mad Libs, knitting, or other non-electronic entertainment for the rare instance when something happens to the train’s electrical system. During this kind of delay (and it will be a delay), all kinds of things won’t work (pray the toilets still flush).
I have difficulty writing in my journal on the train. I do it sometimes. Still, it drives me crazy how messy my handwriting looks from the train’s bumps, bounces, and jerks. I commended this man for drawing and painting on the train. We didn’t talk long, but maybe that’s part of his art process - take concept to train and get what you get.
8. Bring food.
If you have particularities or wants for things like vegetables, you’ll thank yourself for bringing something nourishing with you. All Amtrak trains have café cars with a selection of items from sweet to savory and various drinks. Café car items are all fairly carb heavy, heated in a microwave if served hot, and familiar items in the standard American diet. As a point of contrast, the dining car, if your train has one, offers a social experience with cutlery, linens, and entrées that include veggies like green beans, broccoli, carrots or asparagus.
9. Move your body.
You’re not required to sit the whole time. Stroll through the cars, use the restroom, stretch in the car lobby (the lobby is different depending on the kind of train), get a refreshment in the café car and enjoy it in the café seating area, treat yourself to views in the observation car and strike up a conversation with someone there. Pacing is distracting to other passengers, so if you have ants in your pants, try to work that out in the lobby.
10. Sleep during quiet hours.
Especially for overnight trains, sleep if possible. Bring a travel pillow and a compressible or lightweight blanket. In coach, seats recline and have leg rests. If you absolutely must lay flat to sleep, reserve a room or roomette. If you are bothered by light or noises when trying to sleep or during sleep, bring an eye mask and ear plugs. Whatever you need to do to sleep, make your best effort to do it. For all the things that can go wrong on a train or rub you the wrong way, it’s much easier to roll with these things when you’re not cranky tired.
Slow travel invites an unhurried exploration of the world. Train travel offers “retreat in motion” where you can connect with personally nourishing and meaningful experiences. Riding Amtrak is beautifully suited to deliberate journeys in America, and whatever your traveling preference, every ride will deliver a memorable experience.
What memorable experiences have you had riding the train? What tips would you share with people considering train travel? If you’ve never tried the train in the U.S. what kind of experience would you like and what part of the country would you like to see? Please share in the comments below.
